It has become quite a common proverb
that in wine there is truth.
- Pliny the Elder (A.D. c. 23–A.D. 79)
Elusive Pinot Noirs to Taste
by Tim Hayes & John Koetzner
Pinot Noir is considered by many (especially if you’re French)
to be one of the finest, noblest, enticing wines in the world. We have
to admit one of the finest wines we have ever tasted was a French Pinot
Noir. Here in Sonoma County, and the rest of the California wine industry,
the Pinot Noir grape has proven to be an elusive advesary. Until fairly
recently it has been a thorn in the side of many a winemaker. With so
many different clones grown in Northern California, in different soils
and variable weather patterns, its inconsistency and variations in style
make it one of the hardest grape varieties to work with to produce a "benchmark"
Pinot Noir. As a result of the difficulties associated with growing and
producing Pinto Noir wines, prices have steadily climbed as the demand
has grown.
The grape origins are from the Burgundy region of France and the wines
have often been described as elegant, supple, rich, intense and lush with
cherry and cassis characteristics. Over the past few years Sonoma County,
and more specifically the Russian River Appellation, has been capturing
the true essence of Pinot Noir in liquid form and made it available to
us.
Some of the more prominent local producers such as Rochioli, William Syelliam,
and Gary Ferrell have been paving their way towards stardom with their
world class offerings of this seductive elixir. For an excellent food
and wine pairing, try some locally produced C-K lamb with your Pinot Noir;
it’s a recipe for success in capturing the bounty of our county.
This week we tasted five Pinot Noirs that cover a range of styles.
Varietal of the Month: Pinot Noir
Pick of the Week: La Crema 1996 Reserve Sonoma Coast
$14.00 1997 Alexander Valley Vineyards
Wetzel Family Estate
Nice ruby color, a cedary nose with spicy wood and vanilla masking
the soft berry fruit a bit. Soft tannins and a pleasant finish.
$16.00 1997
Kendall-Jackson
Vintner’s Reserve
Deep garnet color, a rich plum and black cherry nose, opulent texturewith
a vanilla, raisiny, berry middle, and follows with a long lingering finish.
This is the best buy for this tasting.
$21.00 1996
J
Rusian River Valley
Light ruby color, soft berry and cherry overtones, lush mouth feel with
vanillan wood and layers of fruit and tannins lingering and a
slightly hot finish.
$24.00 1997
Iron Horse
Sonoma County- Green Valley
Good garnet color, black cherry and vanilla nose, forward fruit of cherries
and cassis, and velvety soft on the palate. This is an
extremely well-balanced wine.
$27.00 1996 La Crema Reserve
Sonoma Coast
Deep ruby color, classic Pinot Noir nose with a cornucopia of raspberry,
blackberry, and cherry fruits, with a balance between fruit, wood and
tannin that rewards the palate. Excellent lingering
berry fruit. A great example of Pinot Noir.
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Archive
Reviews
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Outstanding. Buy it now.
Very good quality wine.
Pleasant, above average wine.
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