It has become quite a common proverb that in wine there is truth. - Pliny the Elder (A.D. c. 23–A.D. 79)

Sonoma County Harvest Fair – Let’s Get Small

By John Koetzner & Tim Hayes
Photography by Margie Koetzner

The Sonoma County Fairgrounds can often be sweltering on warm days, and yet, despite the more than 100 degree heat, the preview of the Sonoma County Harvest Fair Awards for Wine was a very cool affair. Not only did we get to meet with owners/winemakers in an intimate setting, but we had the opportunity to try wines that often get lost in the larger shuffle of the Harvest Fair. So, as a service to our readers, we offer some stops that might get lost amongst the many wine producers who not only get awards, but often find themselves trying to vie for notice.

While there are many varietals to choose from in such a foray into wine tasting, we focused on some tried and true varietals (Chardonnay and Zinfandel predominantly), but we also did some tasting to suggest seeking out other wines that might get overlooked.

One of our first stops was at Balletto Vineyards where we tasted a luscious Chardonnay that had great fruit forward, with tropical fruit overtones, and an excellent finish. It received a silver medal, but it spoke gold to us. Following that we dropped by Barber Cellars where we tasted a nice example of a Sauvignon Blanc and then proceeded to Bluenose Wines where Paul Brasset was happily watching tasters sample his 2009 Sonoma County Chardonnay that received a gold medal. Priced at $17.00 a bottle, it was sure to be a winner with tasters and restaurant owners alike. After turning the corner, we came upon Linda Carinalli pouring her D&L Carinalli Vineyards 2009 Russian River Valley Best of Class Chardonnay that was a reminder of what makes Sonoma County, and the Russian River Valley, so great – great fruit forward that had tropical flavors, lush mouth feel, hints of vanilla, and just a wonderful aftertaste. (They also have a Viognier that is floral, fruity and worth the price of admission.)

(Linda Carinalli holds the medal for Best of Class for the 2009 Chardonnay.)

For those seeking out the even more limited producers who are making high quality wines, try the Suacci Carciere 2008 Russian River Valley Chardonnay from Heintz Vineyard. It’s just their third release, but their wines show that quality abounds. (Their Zinfandel got a gold. Need we say more?)

From Chardonnay, we tasted over twenty-eight Zinfandels, and that means we had to do a lot of spitting for just one varietal. And, it is a grape we really like. So, we were serious about tasting a few that we could recommend from producers who often get overlooked. One early pick was the J. Rickards Winery’s 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel from Alexander Valley. It had nice raspberry fruit forward, nice mouth feel, and it finished with soft tannins that you could wrap the most fragile of palattes in and keep them safe. From there we happened over to Peche Merle, an up and coming producer that has two Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels that are worth seeking out. One is the L’Entrée from Dry Creek Valley and the other is the Dry Creek Zinfandel. L’Entrée got a silver medal, but try both and compare. We think you’ll like them.

Wandering over to Shippey Vineyards, we sampled the Rocking Z 2007 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel that took a silver medal and has some great berry fruit forward, hints of vanilla, and a soft, smooth finish. It’s the kind of wine we like to taste while hanging out with friends. We also stopped by Selby Winery and tasted a very nice 2007 Old Vines Zinfandel as well as a very nice 2006 Merlot.

Other stops that we would recommend include Harts Desire Wines 2008 Russian River Valley Zinfandel from Ponzo Vineyard,  Balletto Vineyards 2007 Russian River Valley Zinfandel, Rued 2007 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel, the Deux Amis 2007 Sonoma County and 2007 Halling Vineyard Zinfandels, and J. Keverson 2007 Sonoma County Zinfandel.

As Steve Martin joked years ago, “Let’s think small.” Well, it may have been a joke all those years ago, but for serious wine tasters, thinking small may be one of the best ways to taste and learn about Sonoma County wines.